Why garden using a raised garden bed?

If you have never used a raised garden bet let me start off by saying that they are a great addition to an existing garden as well as offering gardeners with arthritis or issues with knees the opportunity to garden without having to bend all the way down. There are infact 2 types of raised garden beds, ones that are built on the existing ground and ones that are built on a pedistal system, elevating the garden bed over the grounds.
Raised garden beds have been popular in the Southern US for quite some time. They were designed to be used in clay rich soil of the South as a way to allow for growing of vegetables and later took on the decorative aspects we see today.
Benefits of Raised Garden Beds for Gardeners
Most garden beds are designed to allow easy access from all sides so the gardener does not have to stand in the garden bed itself. This reduces soil compaction, which makes it easier for plants to receive nutrients. It also means that gardeners can sit on a stool or bench to do their weeding and planting, instead of having to kneel on the ground, which can cause back problems or make existing problems worse.
Raised garden beds offer an attractive and elegant addition to gardens and landscapes. The use and designs on the market today allow for angles and shapes that natural wood can not duplicate. Building a garden bed is actually a very simple project.
Before starting on one the builder needs to consider the following things, what will I be planting in the garden. If it a flower garden most materials are acceptable. If the garden will be for herbs or vegetables that will be eaten by the gardener you might want to consider what the structure will be made from. The use of pressure treated woods or some plastics will leach carcinogins into the soil eventually making its way into the root system of the plants and into the very vegetable or herb you are growing. There are many pre-fabricated kits on the market today in all shapes and sizes. They are more costly but they are also much simpler to assemble.
Raised garden beds are easy to fertilize, water, and mulch due to the size and design. This translates into more efficient gardens. Also, they tend to use less water and fertilizer due to the set-up. When the garden bed is being filled in, unlike with Mother Nature, you decide what to put in the includings starting with mulch, or moisture absorbing materials to help seal in the water, followed by organic dirt, if it will be an organic garden. Think of the raised garden bed as very large planter.
Gardening Benefits of Raised Beds
Because the soil gets warmer more quickly and stays warmer longer the growing season tends to be longer than if you planted right into the ground. The reduced compaction of the soil and the warmth of the bed make it possible for plants to grow earlier in the spring and later in the fall. Because the soil is less compact in a raised garden bed, plants can be placed closer together. This all works to allow for a greater production vs a conventional garden in the ground.
Water also drains out more efficiently from a raised garden bed protecting your plants from becoming overwatered or saturated. The structure of the garden bed also holds in nutrients, making plants healthier and more resistant to disease.

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Greenhouse Problems Overcomed

Our family loves to grow in our greenhouse. We bought is a little over 2 years ago as a way to extend the growing season both before the Spring and after the Summer. Our greenhouse is designed for a homeowner and has been working out well. From the fresh smell in the air once the doors are opened to the colors, to the warmth you feel as if you are really succeeding in not only creating something from scratch but also teaching your family the value of rewards of doing something on your own.

As exciting and pretty as the greenhouse is in our yard, we get compliments all the time from friends, there are challenges when growing in a greenhouse and solutions to make for a much better experience. Over the past two season I have come up with a few suggestions to help make greenhouse gardening much more enjoyable.

Temperature control: Hotter is not always better. Each variety has its own optimum temperature preference, and sometimes these desires change with the stages of plant development. However, in general, the air temperature of a greenhouse should not rise above around 90 degrees. After that, your tomatoes and cucumbers may have trouble with pollination. There are ways to control these temperatures through fans and greenhouse shades.
The problem with temperature is that it can rise quickly. On more than one occasion I left the house in the morning and the greenhouse temperature was around 70 degrees to return an hour later o find the temperature over 100 degrees or more. Leaving the door open is insufficient on especially warm or sunny days, for without cross ventilation the air hangs heavy, still and hot.
To aid with the cross ventilation a number of greenhouses come standard with automatic roof vents that are controlled by temperature in the greenhouse. When the temperature rises the fluid in the piston that opens the vent expands and pushed he vent open. Pretty cool. When it cools down the vent closes. The addition of a plug in fan on a timer (set for the times when the greenhouse gets the warmest) will also help get air circulating both in and out of the greenhouse. You do not want to use an air conditioning system, as this will pull much needed moisture out of the air.
Humidity: Long term high humidity and dampness can be cause permanent damage to your plants. There have been a number of studies over the years that have found that if it is too damp the plants cannot pass the oxygen and water they produce back out into the atmosphere and growth can be stunted. Most experts feel that humidity levels between 25 to 80 percent will not adversely affect most plant growth. At a consistent higher rate of humidity most plants will develop problems with being able to absorb moisture and develop diseases associated with moist environments such as funguses. So, the same high humidity that stresses your plants provides the perfect conditions for disease growth--two reasons for keeping it under control.
Watering only when absolutely necessary helps, as will making sure you don't leave pools of water lying around when you drag the hose back out the door. The same venting that reduces temperatures will also reduce humidity.
Air circulation: When the air is stagnant, humidity builds up, diseases thrive, and plant stems don't become as strong as they do when air movement is more vigorous. Fans and venting will help maintain a healthy circulation. As you can see this is a mini ecosystem and everything does seem to be related to each other.
Using Trellises for sprawling plants and trimming back some leaves will also encourage circulation. You do not want to pull at these overgrown plants as you disturb the roots of other plants that have entwined themselves with the chosen sacrifice. Going through this cycle 2 times I have learned that what looks to be an empty greenhouse in March/ Aril turns into a Jungle buy July/ August so make sure you have a chance to plan out the greenhouse and leave enough space for all your plants.
Pest Control: Since this is a closed ecosystem there are even greater chances for bugs to get into the greenhouse and spread very quickly. Trust me I know. I suggest spot-check flowers, buds, the undersides of leaves, and the places where stems and stalks intersect. At the first sign of aphids, remove the plant and use a wash to clean the plant. I prefer using the organic version since what I spray today I will be eating in a few weeks. There is also no better way to protect your plants that by using natural defenders. Ladybugs are great. You can buy them online and just open the package of live ladybugs and watch them go to work. Since this is an eco system there needs to be balance. Ladybugs will eat the aphids as well as start families in the dirt, which will lead to a nice productive life cycle. I have found that periodic additions of ladybugs are needed as well. If a plant looks to have caught a disease, I am ruthless about culling. I first try cutting off just the affected parts, but if the spots, splotches or rot continues I decapitate at root level.
Cleanliness: It sounds funny but a clean greenhouse makes for a clean plant and growing environment. Managing the surroundings will help ensure a great harvest as well as hours of enjoyment.

It sounds like a lot of work but it really is not. Once you get into a routine you will find that gardening with a greenhouse is truly delightful and the diligence you applied in the beginning will pay off.

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Growing Vegetables in a Greenhouse

Growing In A Greenhouse

Visit: http://www.greenproducts.info/growinginagreenhouse.html for more ideas and tips.

A greenhouse can be a great asset when growing vegetables in your garden, extending your growing season and even providing you with fresh vegetables through the winter and early spring. Successful vegetable growing requires the right environment in your greenhouse.
Environmental elements to be considered are heat (in cooler months), cooling (in warm months), ventilation, air circulation, shading, humidity and lighting.

Starting Seeds
Seed starting for the summer or winter vegetable garden is a very common use for a greenhouse. With a greenhouse, you can get an early start to your garden or even have vegetables year round. Needed seed starting supplies are containers, sterile soil, fertilizer, water, and, especially for northern gardeners, heat and light. A relatively inexpensive way to start seeds is using a propagation mat under seed flats. This provides warmth directly to the soil to help with germination. An alternative to using flats is to plant seeds directly into a soil bench. Warmth can be provided with a heat cable buried about 6 inches in the soil.

Heating
Heat in the greenhouse can be provided with electric, natural gas or LP gas heaters. Electric heaters are flexible, economical, and easy to install with 240 volt heaters generally being more efficient than 120 volt. However, a 120 volt heater is generally adequate for heating a small greenhouse when controlled by a separate heavy-duty, moisture resistant thermostat. Natural gas and LP heaters should be properly vented, both providing fresh air for combustion and exhausting fumes, and equipped with a good thermostat. Other, less common heating methods include in-the-floor radiant heating or an extension of a forced-air home heating system to an attached greenhouse.

Lighting
Once the seeds come up they need light. If the natural light in your greenhouse is low (a common issue in winter), providing supplemental lighting is important to keep plants from getting spindly. A simple fluorescent shop light hung about 4 inches above your plants may be enough.
However, many growers swear by the new High Output Fluorescent lamps, High Pressure Sodium, Metal Halide, or LED grow lights. These specialized lights provide strong, full spectrum light and can often cover a larger area than ordinary fluorescent. The high output fluorescent lamps are energy efficient as well.

Vegetables to Grow in the Winter Greenhouse
Vegetables commonly grown in a winter greenhouse include lettuce, spinach, radishes, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. However, what you are actually able to successfully grow depends on the night time temperatures you decide to keep. A cool greenhouse, with night time temperatures of 40-45°F, works for lettuce, spinach and radishes. Peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers need warmer temperatures at night, around 65°F, especially when fruit is growing.

Pollination
Vegetables growing in a greenhouse often need help with pollination. Standard cucumbers will need hand pollination, taking the male blossom and gently rubbing the female blossom center. Tomatoes and peppers are self-pollinating but the blossoms should be gently shaken or vibrated on a regular basis. Circulation fans can help move plants. A preferred alternative is to look in seed catalogs for varieties of seeds that are appropriate for greenhouse production, often due to their method of pollination.

Watering
Water is needed but the amount and frequency varies with temperatures, day length, plant size and your growing medium. It is recommended that the plants be thoroughly soaked at every watering. In January, watering may be needed every 10 to 14 days. As the days get warmer, the frequency should be increased. A flat of seedlings being warmed by a heat mat will also dry out more quickly. When watering, avoid splashing foliage to prevent spreading diseases.

Ventilation
In the winter, it can be difficult to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Do not over water. Help control humidity with proper ventilation and air circulation. For air circulation I recommend an oscillating fan running 24/7 all year long. For ventilation in the warmer months, the gentlest form of ventilation is through natural convection with base wall vents or jalousie (louvered) windows pulling cool air in down low, with roof vents allowing hot air out through the roof.

Cooling
Positive cooling is usually not needed in a greenhouse as long as adequate humidity and shading is provided on hot days. If positive cooling is needed we would suggest using evaporative air coolers which humidify as they cool. Air conditioners are not good for plants since they remove moisture from the air.

Growing Vegetables in a Greenhouse

A greenhouse can be a great tool when growing vegetables in your garden, extending your growing season and even providing you with fresh vegetables through the winter and early spring. Successful vegetable growing requires the right environment in your greenhouse. Environmental elements to be considered are heat (in cooler months), cooling (in warm months), ventilation, air circulation, shading, humidity and lighting.

Starting Seeds

Seed starting for the summer or winter vegetable garden is a very common use for a greenhouse. With a greenhouse, you can get an early start to your garden or even have vegetables year round. Needed seed starting supplies are containers, sterile soil, fertilizer, water, and, especially for northern gardeners, heat and light. A relatively inexpensive way to start seeds is using a propagation mat under seed flats. This provides warmth directly to the soil to help with germination. An alternative to using flats is to plant seeds directly into a soil bench. Warmth can be provided with a heat cable buried about 6 inches in the soil.

Heating

Heat in the greenhouse can be provided with electric, natural gas or LP gas heaters. Electric heaters are flexible, economical, and easy to install with 240 volt heaters generally being more efficient than 120 volt. However, a 120 volt heater is generally adequate for heating a small greenhouse when controlled by a separate heavy-duty, moisture resistant thermostat. Natural gas and LP heaters should be properly vented, both providing fresh air for combustion and exhausting fumes, and equipped with a good thermostat. Other, less common heating methods include in-the-floor radiant heating or an extension of a forced-air home heating system to an attached greenhouse.

Lighting

Once the seeds come up they need light. If the natural light in your greenhouse is low (a common issue in winter), providing supplemental lighting is important to keep plants from getting spindly. A simple fluorescent shop light hung about 4 inches above your plants may be enough. However, many growers swear by the new High Output Fluorescent lamps, High Pressure Sodium, Metal Halide, or LED grow lights. These specialized lights provide strong, full spectrum light and can often cover a larger area than ordinary fluorescent. The high output fluorescent lamps are energy efficient as well.

Vegetables to Grow in the Winter Greenhouse

Vegetables commonly grown in a winter greenhouse include lettuce, spinach, radishes, tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. However, what you are actually able to successfully grow depends on the night time temperatures you decide to keep. A cool greenhouse, with night time temperatures of 40-45°F, works for lettuce, spinach and radishes. Peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers need warmer temperatures at night, around 65°F, especially when fruit is growing.

Pollination

Vegetables growing in a greenhouse often need help with pollination. Standard cucumbers will need hand pollination, taking the male blossom and gently rubbing the female blossom center. Tomatoes and peppers are self-pollinating but the blossoms should be gently shaken or vibrated on a regular basis. Circulation fans can help move plants. A preferred alternative is to look in seed catalogs for varieties of seeds that are appropriate for greenhouse production, often due to their method of pollination.

Watering

Water is needed but the amount and frequency varies with temperatures, day length, plant size and your growing medium. It is recommended that the plants be thoroughly soaked at every watering. In January, watering may be needed every 10 to 14 days. As the days get warmer, the frequency should be increased. A flat of seedlings being warmed by a heat mat will also dry out more quickly. When watering, avoid splashing foliage to prevent spreading diseases.

Ventilation

In the winter, it can be difficult to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Do not over water. Help control humidity with proper ventilation and air circulation. For air circulation I recommend an oscillating fan running 24/7 all year long. For ventilation in the warmer months, the gentlest form of ventilation is through natural convection with base wall vents or jalousie (louvered) windows pulling cool air in down low, with roof vents allowing hot air out through the roof.

Cooling

Positive cooling is usually not needed in a greenhouse as long as adequate humidity and shading is provided on hot days. If positive cooling is needed I’d suggest using evaporative air coolers which humidify as they cool. Air conditioners are not good for plants since they remove moisture from the air.

Collecting Rainwater with a rain barrel

Collecting Rainwater is key to stopping erosion in most of the world while at the same time protecting our valuable water source. Run-off continues to add to contamination of our rivers, streams and lakes which in turn feed into our seas and oceans affecting everything including our food supply.

The use of a rain barrel is a simple and economical way to curb this run-off and help save our environment for our future generations.